Bilbao is that elusive but lucky combination of being both attractive and welcoming to visitors, yet retaining its character as an everyday working city unconcerned by the attention of tourists. Most people might see the magnificent titanium and limestone Guggenheim museum as the only reason for a tourist visit to this primarily industrial city and, in truth, it could be reason enough - but Bilbao and the surrounding Basque region offer much more.

There are several places worth visiting within an hour or so of Bilbao. Santander is an attractive seaside town - drive up to the coast via the interesting transporter bridge on the Nervion river north of the city at Portugalete. Durango has an ancient centre worth seeing, as does tne Basque capital Vitoria-Gasteiz. In the Urkiola Natural Park, the Duranguesado Massif rises from a beautiful valley popular with walkers and La Concha in San Sebastian/Donostia is Biscay's finest beach.

But before we head out into the Basque region, let's have a look around Bilbao itself.