We now arrive in San Sebastian or Donostia, in the maze of narrow streets that make up the La Parte Vieja. This is the quarter reown for its gourmet restaurants and gastronomic clubs, where groups of men take it in turn to cook for each other. Slightly more posh than Bilbao, prices are higher but still reasonable. In fact, the best value is often had by wandering around the parte vieja dropping into bars and sampling the tapas on offer - after three or four you won't need a meal.